DIY: How to polish engine parts
DIY: How to polish engine parts:
This is a guide on how to polish engine parts. I used my intake manifold to show how, but this can be done on just about any metallic engine part (piping, cast aluminum, sheet metals and others)
Tools require and costs:
Brown Buffing soap $10 approx
White buffing soap $10 approx
Loose buffing wheel $20 approx
Stitched buffing wheel $20 approx
Bench grinder $50 - $300 depending on brand
Adapter for wheel $20 approx
Angle grinder $50 - $300 depending on brand
120grit sanding disk $15 approx
Wet and dry Sand paper:
2 x 120grit $2
2 x 240grit $2
1 x 400grit $1
1 x 800grit $1
1 x 1200grit $1
1 x 2000grit $1
Disposable gloves $7 approx this is optional just makes it easier to keep hands clean
Step1 tapping Optional:
I taped up my intake manifold to avoid get aluminum bits getting inside it while I am sanding. I will still clean it out with degreaser once I am done, this just makes it easier to clean after.
Step2 using the angle grinder:
My manifold is a cast aluminum part so there is lots of “pores” that need removing. Other metal parts may not require this level of sanding as they are relatively smooth all ready.
Ok some people may be afraid to take an angel grinder to their engine parts. But the sanding disk that I use is fairly fine, so it should be ok as long as you don’t sit there for half an hour on one spot, just apply light even pressure and “brush” it along the part.
If your really worried skip this step, but if your sanding down cast aluminum like the intake manifold, then either your patience as hell or you will reconsider
You want to make sure you remove all the pores
After using the grinder you will end up some thing like this:
Step 3 manual Sanding:
Ok now that the pores are removed we need to smooth out the surface. I used the same grit as the disk here (120grit) to even out the lines and unevenness left by the sanding disk.
After dry sanding I sprayed some degreaser and then did a wet sand which gives a better finish.
This is how it looks after the wet sand:
Continue doing the same with 240grit then 400grit, 800grit, 1200grit, and the 2000grit.
After 400 grit:
After 800 grit:
You should be able to see it becoming more reflective.
After 1200grit:
Here you can see the difference between a wet and dry sand (top being wet)
And Finally after 2000grit:
Step 4 polishing (cutting stage):
Ok now that the hard part is complete all we have left is to polish the surface. The finish of your product will depend on how much effort you put into your sanding, and the smoother the sanding the better the polish.
Ok so now we setup our bench grinder with the tapered tool and the stitched wheel, this wheel is a cutting wheel it “cuts” the material to give a better finish.
With this wheel you use the brown buffing soap.
Take your time and try to work every area. Make sure you reapply more buffing soap on your wheel now and then.
This is the finish product after the cutting wheel.
Step 4 polishing (Final polish):
Ok now we change the buffing wheel to the loose buffing wheel. With this we wheel we use the white buffing soap, this will give a better overall finish.
This is how it should look after this stage:
Before:
After:
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks